Full Length
With the jacket on the customer, we measure from the bottom of the cloth under the collar, down along the centre back seam, to the desired length of the jacket or coat. The measurement shows the final figure, including figurations. We work to 1/3″ sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- Your jacket should reach the top of your leg, below the seat.
- The bottom/hem of a well-fitting jacket should be level with the floor.
- The length of a traditional jacket is usually within 1″ of the inside leg measurement.
- For a more contemporary fit, the jacket is cut shorter – usually half way up the seat.
Shoulder Point to Point
We measure from the point where the shoulder seam meets the shoulder end at the sleeve seam (T junction) at one side. We then run the tape horizontally across the back, below the collar, to the same point on the other side. We work to 1/4” sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- It’s far better for the jacket to be too wide on the shoulders than too tight.
- As this measurement overrides the half back measurement, it dictates the fit in the drape and shoulder blade area.
- We allow a little more width for fabrics with natural stretch, including cotton, velvet, corduroy and linen.
Crown to cuff
Starting with the metal end of our tape at the bottom, we measure from the centre of the cuff to the top of the crown. Often, this is the point where the shoulder seam meets the crown. We work to 1/4” sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- We usually use the chest size and sleeve length to dictate the cuff circumference, although this can easily be adjusted.
- It’s worth noting that shirt sleeves can vary considerably in length. Does the customer want to show their cuffs?
- As linen, cotton and velvet are prone to shrinking and have a natural stretch, we recommend giving a little extra space compared to wool.
Chest
Standing in front and slightly to the side, we’ll ask you to raise your arms then measure around your chest, at the armpits, horizontally to the floor and over your shoulder blades. We’ll ask you to lower your arms after positioning the tape. We don’t measure too tightly at this point, allowing for a couple of centimetres worth of space.
Tips
- As we take full integers for chest measurements, we need to know if you prefer a close fit or if you like to store items in your breast pockets.
- For taller customers, we often upgrade the chest measurement slightly to create a waisted shape.
- All measurements you give are net of figuration adjustments. So the measure you give is what you get regardless of figurations.
- The over measure is affected by increases/decreases in the half back and the waist from the standard value for the chest size. For example an increase in the half back by 3⁄4″ from the standard on a 40″ chest (85/8″ to 95/8″) would increase the over measure by approximately 1”.
Jacket Waist
Standing in front and slightly to the side, we’ll run the tape around your waist around 2” below the rib cage, where the jacket would be fastened. This is a body measurement with a couple of centimetres ease. At this point, we’ll discuss fit and shape with you and then measure accordingly. We work to 1/2” sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- Taller and slimmer men often have a much smaller true jacket waist measurement than their trouser waist, especially when measured low on the hips. We recommend grading up the waist slightly, to around an inch bigger than the trouser waist, for a more comfortable waisted shape.
- If the drop from the chest to the jacket waist exceeds 6” or 7”, it can cause problems with the vents or stressing on the seams. A large drop creates a very fitted looking silhouette, so we avoid following the contours of the body beyond this.
Jacket Seat
With your feet together, we stand at your side then place the tape measure around the widest part of your seat/hips. The tape needs to run smoothly up and down, not to loose or too tight. We can then adjust the amount of flare or fit with this measurement. We work to 1/2” sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- We’ll ask you to remove anything from your pockets.
- Please fold your arms to ensure they’re not in the way.
Trousers
Trouser Waist
We place the tape around the part of the waist where you wish to wear your trousers. They will be made to this exact measurement. We work to 1/2” sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- We’ll ask you to place your fingers under the tape to assess the pressure, as trouser waistbands can stretch.
- Please let us know if you plan on having the waist taken in or let out at a later date.
- If you like to wear a belt, please let us know as this will affect the fit of your trousers.
Inside Leg
We’ll take your measurements with your trousers on. First, we hold the tape high up the inside leg at the fork, if the crutch position of your trousers is satisfactory. If your current trousers are too high or low, we’ll ask you to adjust them to your desired crutch position. We then run the tape down the inside leg seam, to the desired length. We work to 1/2” sensitivity in this measurement.
Alternatively, with your chosen trousers laid flat, we measure from the fork/crutch along the inside leg seam to the bottom or desired length.
Tips
- For jeans and trousers, the inside leg measurement is often longer for a suit from 1/2” to 1”, so this needs to be considered.
Outside Leg
Position your trousers at the level you wish to wear them – on, above or below your hips. We will measure down along the outside leg seam to the desired length, including the waistband. We work to 1/2” sensitivity in this measurement.
Adjusting the position of the waistband on the hips will affect the rise measurement – the difference between the out leg and inside leg measurement.
The Rise
The rise is the difference in measurements between the outside leg (including the waistband) and the inside leg – a crucial measurement in ensuring the trousers fit correctly. The three main considerations here are your height, seat measure and your chosen position of the waistband.
Tips
- In general, taller customers have a longer rise.
- Wearing braces can suspend the waistband higher, resulting in a longer rise. If you wear your waistband lower, you may require a shorter rise.
Bottoms
We measure the full circumference of the trouser bottom.
Tips
- As the width is made narrower or wider, the trouser length needs to be adjusted accordingly.
- We take your shoe preference into consideration – from high cut to low, loafer style.
- If you’re sensitive about the size of your feet, we can adjust your trouser bottoms to flatter them.
Trouser Thigh
We take the thigh measurement 3” below the fork/crutch. This is a net body measurement only, as your finished trouser will be shaped by the other styles you’ve selected.
Tips
- We will ensure that the finished trouser measurement can accommodate the size given, although the body measure doesn’t control the finished size in this area.
Knee Measure
We take the knee measurement at the knee itself, and at this point we need the finished cloth measure or total circumference. This measurement acts as a guide to the pattern cutter and can’t always be adhered to, as it can negatively affect the shape of the leg. We can use this measurement to create flared or bootleg cut trouser bottoms, by holding the knee and increasing the bottom width. We may change this measurement if you have wide calves but don’t want wide trouser bottoms.
Waistcoat
Waistcoat
For chest and waist, we use the jacket measurement method.
Opening
We place the tape around the back of the neck, below the shirt collar, then run it around the front. We then bring it together at your chosen opening point. This measurement is then divided by 2. We’ll allow for the amount of tie you’d like to show. We’ll also consider the line of your jacket lapel (single breasted, 1, 2, 3, or 4).
Chest
Standing in front and slightly to the side, we’ll ask you to raise your arms then measure around your chest, at the armpits, horizontally to the floor and over your shoulder blades. We’ll ask you to lower your arms after positioning the tape. We don’t measure too tightly at this point, allowing for a couple of centimetres worth of space.
We’ll discuss your preferred fit and shape. Armhole sizes are graded up and down naturally, according to chest size and overall body allowance. We work to 1” sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- We take full integers for chest measurements, considering if you want a close, regular or easy fit.
- The measurement we take is the measurement you get, regardless of figurations.
Front Length
We place the end of the tape below the collar at the back, in the centre. We then run the tape around the collar then straight down the chest, taking it over the waistband to your desired length.
Tips
- We always consider where the waistband will sit, as the waistcoat length should be 1” to 2” below this point to avoid the shirt showing.
- Please consider whether you’d prefer a pointed or straight bottomed waistcoat.
- Low cut trousers require a longer front length. We recommend that all tailcoats have the trouser waistband cut to sit on the waist or above the hip.
Waist
Standing in front and slightly to the side, we’ll run the tape around your waist around 2” below the rib cage, where the jacket would be fastened. This is a body measurement with a couple of centimetres ease. At this point, we’ll discuss fit and shape with you and then measure accordingly. We work to 1/2” sensitivity in this measurement.
Tips
- We sometimes use darts to improve the fit for slimmer customers, who like a shirt that’s shaped into the hollow of their back at the waist. We add the total size of darts to the pattern and waist circumference, then dart out again to create the final fit at the back.